![]() Is there another green you want to show off instead of scallions? A grated cheese you want to sprinkle on top before baking, like mozzarella? And what about spooning on some burrata just before serving? Why not? The result would not be traditional focaccia or traditional pizza-but an untraditional focaccia pizza to bring a lot of people a lot of joy. Use what you have on hand or what you’re craving. ![]() And, of course, the world is your oyster (or, uh, pepperoni?) to play around. Savory tomato sauce and bright scallions make it much closer to a pizza. It’s simpler.” In this recipe from Ella Quittner, however, it is not. He continues, “Pizza al taglio is more like a small meal. As Marc Vetri notes in *Mastering Pizza*, “many people think that focaccia is basically naked pizza.” This is sort of, but not completely, accurate. Nowadays, finger-dimpled focaccia is all but synonymous with an immodest amount of olive oil, which yields a delightfully crisp, practically fried crust. Even the shape could be round or square or rectangular. ![]() Toppings range from sage to rosemary, garlic to onion, tomatoes to grapes, and then some. It is typically savory but could also be sweet. Ella Quittner Test Kitchen NotesĪn old-school yeasted flatbread, focaccia is considered “an early prototype of modern pizza,” according to the exhaustive by Lynne Olver, “thought by some to have originated with the Etruscans or Ancient Greeks.” Over these many years, unsurprisingly, it has had innumerable iterations. You wouldn't be doing anyone a disservice by topping this, warm from the oven, with a big spoonful of ricotta. It's impossible for me to see bakery twine and not crave it. To heavy-handed scallion application that infuses it with an indispensable savoriness that's at once gentle and intense. To that thin layer of jammy tomato sauce across its top that lends it an almost doughy texture that, when coupled with the crunch of the crisp bottom and the uniquely tight, yet light crumb of the interior, makes for the world's most perfect bite. This version is my attempt to pay homage. When I moved to New York nine years ago, I felt its loss keenly, thinking of it sometimes twice a day. The one that's topped with tomato sauce and chopped green onions, and despite its name, lacks cheese of any kind. This focaccia is inspired by the “pizza” focaccia I worship from Liguria Bakery.
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